Phil: October 2008 Archives

Unfortunately I didn't get a better picture of the pump truck, which was huge.  You can see the boom behind the two cement trucks though.  It's really tall, the photo doesn't do it justice, perhaps 7 stories tall.  The guy handling the hose on the scaffolding is a consultant.  The walls took 23.5 yards of concrete and the pour went fairly smoothly.  

So the walls are done and next I have to find a roofer.  My brother Steve and I will frame in the laundry room and garage next week.

For those of you who don't know anything about this type of construction, the foam forms are made from recycled materials.  They stay in place and provide 2.5 inches of insulation on the inside and the same on the outside.  The concrete is 6 inches thick between the foam panels and since it provides such a tight seal it performs the same as an insulated stick frame house having an R-40 insulation factor.  So it's "green" building that conforms to construction codes.  The mass of the concrete absorbs and releases heat very slowly and moderates temperature and humidity swings indoors such that we will need only 1/3 of the air conditioning duty that would normally be required.  The costs are estimated at 7% higher than conventional stick-frame built but I believe that includes the labor involved in framing and insulating,  If you've been following, I put the walls up on this house with one hired hand in two weeks, including all the window bucks and rebar.

Here's some more progress, as of Friday evening.  We've got 4 runs of blocks across the front and right side of the house, along with the bucks for the front door, picture window and casement windows.  We've also installed braces along three walls and will finish the fourth on Monday.  Then we'll build the walls to height, which will be a total of 7 courses.

The pour is scheduled for Wed. p.m.- I have a consultant coming from San Antonio who has done this a thousand times and it should only take a couple of hours to complete. 

It takes place in two pours.  The first brings the concrete up to about 4 feet in all four walls.  The window bucks are built to allow concrete to be poured in through the bottom window buck.  Then a second pour brings the concrete to the top of the walls and "J" bolts are inserted.

This is a view of the left wall.  There will be three french doors placed in this wall, two in front for the den and one toward the rear in the MBr.

All of the doors open outward, except for the front double doors.  There will be a covered wrap-around deck eventually, when the economy improves.  (ok, my economy)

I just published this and went back to view the latest comments...  Hi, Mom!  Yes, we're being very careful and I only hit my thumb with a hammer for the first time on Friday, twice in a row but not hard and didn't really hurt it.

Paul and Lisa:  Thanks for the comments, I'll try to post some doggie photos soon.  Chase is growing fast and Buster is glad to have a playmate.  I had to chuckle a bit about naming our path.  Seems that in my haste to get a roof over my head I've overlooked that detail - poor form on my part and I do apologise.  I'll have to put some thought into it so please be patient.

These are the Eco-Block foam blocks that I'll be building the walls of the main house with.  They snap together with connectors and will be stacked 7 blocks high.

Concrete will be poured down in between the blocks and create walls that will be 6" thick concrete with 2-1/2" foam on the inside and 2-1/2" foam on the outside.  The walls will be 9' 4" tall.  Drywall can be screwed directly into the foam blocks in the interior as they have embedded webs that will hold the screws.  A variety of materials may be attached to the exterior, I think I'm going for synthetic stucco, we'll see.

Here's what I got done in a day.  I'll finish assembling the blocks Monday and get the lumber to the door and window bucks.  A consultant is coming Tuesday to deliver bracing/scaffolding and help me get off to a good start.  I should be ready to pour the walls by the weekend, fingers crossed.

It's cooler now and we had some rain that settled the dust and greened everything up.  There's a little water in the pond and everything is really pretty.

Here are some deer tracks in the road that runs from the homesite to the north end of the property.  Looks like Grand Central Station.

I fixed the feeder on the north end so there should be some deer drawn in.  I'm working with a wildlife biologist to take a census and manage the herd so I may get some free doe tags this fall.

Okay, if you read Paul's comment then you understand why I don't post photos of myself (just kidding).  I'm not an exhibitionist but, REALLY!  If you didn't want to look, why ask.  (It's friggin' hot here!)

By the way, I don't have neighbors that I'm aware of.  Not that I've seen anyway.  Besides, I'll wager the girls in Sheet Harbour got a tickle.  At least my wife, I'm sure.

So, enough sarcasm...this photo shows the steel in the beams and the first layer of steel on top.  

Above are photos of the step coming from the laundry room to the garage and the rest of the steel being put in.  Notice the bracing on the step.  NOW THE POUR BEGINS!!! .......

Firstly, the concrete is poured into the beams.  The crew arrived at 6:30 am and there were 7 cement trucks lined up and ready to pour at 7:00 am.

After the beams are filled it's time to go back and bring the concrete to the top of the forms.  You can see the crew working with two trucks simultaneously.  Each truck holds 10 yards of concrete, about 270 cubic feet.

You can see the concrete has been brought up to the top of the forms and being leveled with a 2x4, this is called "screeding".  Additionally, the top is smoothed out (left side of right photo) with a bull float, called "floating" the concrete.  Floating pushes the gravel down and allows the smooth cement to rise to the surface.

Here the forms on the step have been removed so it can be trowelled and the machine on the upper part of the slab is smoothing the surface.

It is solid enough to stand on after a couple of hours but still a bit pliable.

Still a bit of a mess at this point.

And FINALLY!!!

The surface has been smoothed on the upper part and the garage (lower part) has been smoothed and raked gently with a wet broom to make small grooves on top.

Ain't she a beauty !!

Now curing for 72 hrs, remove the forms and on to putting up walls!!  The slab will be fully cured in 3-4 weeks.

By popular demand, a photo of me in front of the foundation as it is.  As you can see I'm wearing my "boss" hat, keeps the sun off my neck and the crew in line.  We're getting close to the pour.  I just can't wait.  It's taken a lot longer than I anticipated but it will be well worth it.  I got a quote of $4600 to lay the steel over a three day period.  Said, "No thanks, I'll do it myself."  Me and "Red", a hired hand, have it almost finished in about five days for under $300.

We had to bend squares of rebar and tie them to horizontally run 20 ft. rebar "sticks", 3 on top/ 3 on bottom.  Rebar is made from mild steel and provides tensile strength, which is resistance to pulling apart.  Concrete has great compression strength but little tensile strength.  By embedding steel in the concrete you get both.  When we finish putting steel in the beams we'll lay a grid of rebar on top with sticks spaced 18" apart and tied together with wire.

This is closer view of the cages in the beams.  The plastic is there to keep the concrete from drying too quickly.  The longer it takes for the concrete to set the stronger it will be.  The rebar is tied together with wires that are cut to 5" length and have loops on each end.  We use a tool called a "pigtail" that hooks into the two loops, then you pull and spin the tool and it twists the wires.  Some of the squares were cut and bent by us, others were bought pre-bent. About 1/2 of 'em.

THANKS FOR ALL THE COMMENTS !!!  KEEP 'EM COMIN' !!